Tuesday, March 15, 2016

High Comfort & High Performance shocks for /2

Scottie's Workshop is pleased to announce that we have recently upgraded to using Disogrin seals on all our new shock absorbers. Disogrin seals are extremely durable and you can read about them here

In the past, we had been using Viton seals, which are already very good seals. 

Also new is the availability of heavy weight shock oil for sidecar and racing applications.  Shock oil option must specified at the time of order.   

Scottie's Workshop shocks for /2 were created to address the shortcomings of the current choices: Boges are soft at low speed, but wallow at greater than 65 mph, whereas the Koni's are somewhat the opposite: hard at low speeds and better at high speeds. 

Scottie's Workshop shocks for /2 are handmade in California with an aluminum body, Disogrin seals, much thicker chromed shaft, and are fully rebuildable. 

The dampening is soft and low speeds and firmer at higher speeds. I have eliminated the "mini doughnut" cushions in favor of a high compliance progressive natural rubber conically shaped bumper. 

I have been really pleased with the performance of these shocks on my /2 both around town and on high speed long distance runs. Customers have reported that their bikes feel "like new"! 

Each set (2 front and 2 rear) are $800 per set, plus shipping. Call the shop at 408-475-2696 for more info.

Saturday, March 12, 2016

For Sale: 1974 R90S fresh paint, low miles, original documentation

There was a time when BMW was the kind of motoring company that celebrated its achievements by producing pinnacle models delivering cutting edge design and performance, while also redefining the Art of Motoring.  The 328, 501, 2002, 3.0CSL, M3 and M5. This is the stuff that dreams are made of. BMW has also celebrated its achievements in motorcycling as well: the R68, R90S...  tell me the BMW K1 isn't saying "Hey Mom, I'm doing ok. Thanks for everything. This one's for you."  

It's in the those moments when BMW reaches into your heart. Who can't look at a 1973 BMW 2002tii and say, "I really want that." 

I want that.

When it comes to iconic BMW motorcycles, I want, I want.  I want an R68. I want an R69S. I want a K1. 

But above all I want R90S.  In Daytona. 

It is the bike that rocked the motorcycle world in 1974. Performance. Looks. It had everything. Even a clock. No matter what the R90S says to you, you can hear it loud and clear.

So when I had the opportunity to buy a 1975 R90S, I jumped at the opportunity. This is one of those bikes that you might only have the opportunity of buying once in a lifetime so when I rolled up to the seller's home with my tow rig, it didn't take me long before I knew I had to buy it. Although the bike appeared in "worse for wear" condition, it started right up and I rode it down the street.  It rode straight and ran nice. I could feel the big pulse of the jugs alternating left and right, the transmission had a decidedly solid cluck into each gear and the front end was solid, no wiggle or shudder from bent forks or frame, loose wheel bearings or a bad steering bearing. The bike was straight.  

I settled into the Corbin canyon saddle. In the dash, external fuses and a single toggle switch were the only modifications. The clock was ticking. I flipped the toggle switch to discover a Kissan headlamp modulator was wired into the headlamp. I rolled on the throttle and the unmistakable torque and grunt of the 900cc twin broke the rear wheel loose. I backed off. The tires were old and hard.

I rode the bike back to give it a look over. As the pipes tinked and pinked, I could see they were smashed along the right hand side along with the valve cover, handlebar lever and fairing. "I low sided it coming off 101S at 237," the seller said. It was only a few months after he had purchased the bike from his father in law. The seller went on to describe how he admired his father in law's bike, and the high degree of meticulous care he took in its maintenance. Then the crash a few years back and he stopped riding it.

Looking closer I see now a Dyna booster ignition with dual Dyna coils and dual spark heads. "San Jose BMW did that work back in the 80's." the seller said. There is also a San Jose triple tree clamp and fork brace. "I have the receipts and all my father in law's maintenance notes since '0' miles." 

"Oh, here's the key to the Krauser luggage. They have been used very little. My father in law kept them on the shelf and so did I."

Oh this is getting good. 

The bodywork was in need of a paint, the front fairing needed to be repaired. It needed all new rubber, a full Service II, paint and stripes  "Maybe a few other things, like a full set of Keihan stainless pipes, Glasurit paint, complete gauge cluster refurbishment by Palo Alto Speedometer, an Odyssey battery, pristine fiberglass bodywork from Boxerworks, and..."

Stay tuned here for more updates. This 1974 R90S (along with the Krauser bags and all the original documentation) is for sale.  $15,000. Call Scottie for details. 

Wednesday, November 04, 2015

Narakorn's R11

Narakorn's R11

Narakorn from Thailand purchased the R11 that we had for sale a while back. We are going to give this bike a full mechanical treatment to transform it into a fun rider before shipping it to its new home halfway round the world. On the list is a full chassis service, new carburetor, new seat cover, new rear brake linings, new handlebar controls, and more. Stay tuned for updates to this fun project! 

Thursday, October 22, 2015

Jory's BMW Isetta 300

Jory's Isetta coupe is in the shop for a clutch. The rear main is leaking. Well probably pull the crank to inspect the motor condition, and clean the slinger. The rhs rear brake cylinder is leaking.

Due to their similarity with bmw motorrad, and shared parts, Scottie's Workshop restores and repairs a fair number of Isetta and 700 cars.

Wednesday, September 23, 2015

Make a Shipping Box for a /2 era motor

Scottie's Workshop has a wooden crate that we loan out to folks who want to ship their motors to us for work. We charge a deposit of $300 for the box that will be returned when the box is returned to us. If you want to ship your motor to us in the box, just give us a ring or email and we'll send it out to you.

Here's how you can build your own wooden crate.
  • Front and back - Qty 2 - 19"**  X 31.75"  3/4" Plywood
  • L and R Sides - Qty 2 - 15.375"  X 19"** 3/4" Plywood
  • Top and Bottom - Qty 2 - 17" X 31.75" 3/4" Plywood
  • Bottom Tier - Qty 1 - 15.5" X 30" 3/4" Plywood
  • 1-1/2 in. x 14-Gauge x 72 in. Zinc-Plated Slotted Angle
  • Sufficient nuts and bolts and washers
  • Heavy Duty Handles 
  • Locking clasps - Such as surface mount ATA twist butterfly latch 
  • Corner braces - Such as Everbilt Model # 15442 
  • Feet - Qty 2 - Length 17" - pressure treated 4X4
  • Engine mount - Qty 2 - Length 15" - pressure treated 4x4
  • Angle iron - Length 9" - motor mount holes are 7 5/8" on center
  • Length 9" - 3/8" all thread, nuts and washers
We are using pressure treated wood here because it is a requirement for most country's import regulations (to prevent wood borne pests). 

Assemble top box as shown in photos below. Glue and clamp mating edges. Drill holes and use nuts and bolts to fasten angle brackets to strengthen joints.  Affix heavy duty folding handles.

Optional: Affix corner braces inside and out to reinforce corners.

Assemble bottom as shown in photos below. Glue and screw bottom tier to bottom leaving 3/4" "shelf" around edge (to locate and secure the box lid). Glue and bolt feet and motor mount to base plate. Drill and locate the angle iron (or aluminum) to secure the motor. I ran long carriage bolts all the way through to the base and counter sunk the base of the bolts and fender washers.

The small piece of 2x4 you see jutting off to the side is just to secure a small cardboard box inside so it won't slide around.

Place the lid on the bottom plate (you may need to sand to fine tune the fit) and affix the butterfly latches, handles, etc.

** If you wish to secure the top of the engine (not really necessary, but I did it on ours), reduce the dimensions of the front and back and sides from 19" to approximately 18.125"  and fabricate a steel plate to accept the top motor studs, as pictured below. Drill oversized 1" holes in top lid to access nuts. Affix plate to lid to locate top engine mount studs.

Test fit your motor!

Wednesday, May 27, 2015

Duchess Motorcycles #4 - 1968 R60/2

Duchess #4 was our toughest build to date, primarily because the donor bike was in poor condition.