Scottie's Workshop: Replacing U-joints

New drive shafts are available from Benchmark Works but they are expensive.

26 11 3 038 034--$626.00--driveshaft 1:6 taper R50-R69S

If your taper is still good and you only need a new u-joint, it seems a shame to pay that much money for a new shaft assembly.

The good news is that Benchmark also sells replacement u-joints.

26 11 3 038 034U--$50.00--universal joint 1950-1969 twins

Here is how I install them:

Grind off the factory punch "pinches".

Press out the bearing races as far as possible. They will not come out all the way yet. That's ok.

Using a small spacer and plate, press out the races.

Take the bearing caps off. If the needles fall out, put a dab of grease in the race and reinstall the bearing needles.

Press the bearing races with the needles part way into the yoke.

Installed part way.

Installed part way, other side.

Now, install one of the bearing needle-retainer washers.

Slip a cork washer over one end of the u-joint shaft.

With the bearing race on the lower yoke, and the cork washer on the lower axle of the u-joint, slip the upper pin into the top hole and swing the lower pin into the lower race.

Now press the u-joint into the bearing race. Be gentle so as not to upset the bearing needles.

Now install a greased cork washer on the upper axle of the u-joint.

Drop in the needle-retaining washer.

Press in the 2nd bearing race. Be gentle so as not to upset the position of the bearing needles.

I use a bench vice for this final pressing.

Center the u-joint so that it is aligned with the driveshaft.