Installing factory style wire ties

BMW used metal wire straps on several locations on the BMW /2 models. There are large ones and smaller ones.  Oftentimes these straps are missing.  I believe the stock locations are as follows.  There may also be a large strap on the right downtube to affix the clutch cable. I am seeking information from those who have original bikes or documentation on the location of these straps.  Please make a comment if you have any information.

The factory straps look like this.  I believe they were painted black.

Benchmark Works has reproduction straps in stock. They are very well made. They come unpainted. 

• 61 11 8 070 114--$3.00--metal wire tie 135mm small
• 61 11 8 070 118--$3.00--metal wire tie 180mm large

To discover how to make the strap "buckle" look the way the BMW factory did it, I unfolded a vintage strap.

Disecting the factory tie, notice that the strap is run through the "bottom" of the buckle and back down into the top of the buckle.  

The strap is cut near the top and then the buckle is pushed down, locking the strap, and hiding the cut end.

To re-create that, the new strap is put in place and the buckle part is lifted up.  The end is fed through the top slot, then back in the bottom slot and trimmed. Then the buckle can be folded down.

A pair of wire rolling pliers helps tighten up the strap.  I decided to use the straps unpainted and see how they hold up.

Unlike the rest of the harness, the engine ground and neutral indicator wire are held to the frame just fore of the rear fender with spring clips.

Installing Headlamp Fixtures

The quality of recent key nail sliding doors have not been great. The black plastic moulding is not as good as the original.  I've noticed that when the door is closed, it does not align properly.  

To remedy this, I make a small cut in the plastic, here, to allow the door to close fully.

Make your cut at an angle, matching the angle of the chrome base.

To install switchboards, have a friend hold a pair of chopsticks to press down on the spring and washer. 

This makes it easier for you to get in there and push the switch board into its final position. Bend each tab with a soft drift slightly, bending each further slowly until the board is held firmly in position. Do not bend the tabs more than you need to.

Installing an LED tail lamp

A couple of years ago my wife was following me home from downtown San Francisco. She was in her car and I was on my /2.  She noted that, even wearing my bright silver Arai, I was nearly impossible to see at night. The /2 is a very "skinny" bike and it is very low.  Adding insult to injury is the stock /2 tail lamp, which is a candle in the wind. Since then, two manufacturers have started making LED tail lamps: Jim Franzen at CULayer.com and bulbsthatlastforever.com by Bruce Branstad.

On the Vintage BMW Forum, Jon Miller pointed out that the Branstad product has an edge in that the LEDs are dual brightness; when the tail lamp is on it is very bright. When the brake is applied, the same set of LEDs grow even brighter.  When the tail lamp is on (as it usually is for most motorcyclists who run the lights on all the time), this makes it very apparent that one is applying the brakes.

The Franzen product, on the other hand, illuminates a series of LEDs for the tail lamp.  When the brakes are applied, another set of LEDs illuminate with the same intensity as the first set of lamps.  At a distance it is difficult to see any difference in brightness.

Branstad's products are sold by Scottie's Workshop in either 6v or 12v versions.

63 24 8 654 131.1--$150.95--full LED brake & tail light 6v, replaces bulb holder and reflector R26-R27 R50-R69S
63 24 8 654 131.2--$150.95--full LED brake & tail light 12v, replaces bulb holder and reflector R26-R27 R50-R69S

Whichever system you choose, installing an LED tail lamp on your /2 is a great idea.  They draw less power and never burn out.

In this example, I'll be installing a Branstad LED tail lamp on a 6V  R60/2.

Update: I spoke to Jim Franzen at CULayer recently.  Unfortunately he has discontinued production of the CULayer /2 tail lamp.   

Update 4/1/17: I heard from Bruce Branstad recently and unfortunately, he also will be discontinuing production of his lamps.  Scottie's has a limited supply of Branstad lamps in stock. Hurry and get one before they disappear forever!

Unscrew the retaining ring screw and remove the tail lamp ring and reflector.

Trim any loose, excess or mangled wires...

...so you end up with a neat bunch like this. Tin the ends neatly. 

Gray is Ground -

Black is Tail lamp +

Red is Brake lamp +

Using a screw driver, press the long end of the springs and release them. Cover with a towel so they don't fly across the garage.

Remove the reflector assembly from the chrome ring and peel away the gray gasket.

Say GOODBYE old fashioned bulbs!!

Find the locating tab.  This is the top of the lens. 

Find the license plate LEDs.  They point towards the BOTTOM of the lens.

Align the LED unit and the lens, as shown.

Reapply the gray gasket to hold the LED and lens together.

Find the locating dimple in the chrome ring.

Align the locating tab in the lens with the locating dimple in the chrome ring. If you are right handed, hold the unit in your left hand as shown as you reapply the clips. 

Once the clips are attached you can connect the wires, install the chrome ring and LED assembly and screw in the chrome ring screw.

Test the tail lamp and brake lamp to ensure everything is working! 

Enjoy your new level of safety and reliability!